evz: Delta Dunării, paradisul pierdut

Locul în care Dunărea întâlneşte marea, unde pescarii jinduiesc la peştele prins de pelicani şi furtunile se sfârşesc cu un curcubeu se zbate între turişti şi ecologişti. Am fost în Deltă când aveam 15 ani. N-am înţeles decât că toată lumea era înnebunită să mănânce peşte şi că apa mării, în locul acela plin cu dune de nisip de la capătul Sulinei, avea un gust dulce mâlos. Atunci am învăţat şi ce înseamnă cuvântul „aluviune“ şi ce rost aveau măgăoaiele de fier care scormoneau canalele Deltei, ca să nu se înfunde cu tot ce ne trimiteau ţările din amonte de Dunăre.

Ai mei au cumpărat la negru nişte peşte mare şi un borcan cu icre. În hotel, singurul din Sulina, nişte străini au vrut să stea la masă cu noi, într-o seară, dar mama s-a ferit de ei ca de dracu’. Erau anii ’80, iar magazinul din Sulina etala conserve de peşte şi atât.

Am revenit în Deltă după mai bine de 20 de ani. Lumea a rămas la fel de înnebunită după peşte, şi el, peştele, se dă tot la negru. Magazinele săteşti sunt aproape la fel de prost aprovizionate, din cauza drumului anevoios şi costisitor peste ape, dar străinii au căpătat permisiunea legală să pactizeze cu băştinaşii, chiar să se cazeze la ei. Atinse de blestemul canalelor pe care le scormoneau în trecut, dragele – ce nume nepotrivit pentru nişte măgăoaie – zac acum ruginite pe marginea râului. Nu le mai foloseşte nimeni, nu pentru că s-ar fi dat vreo directivă de prezervare a naturii sălbatice, ci din cauza modului românesc în care decurge viaţa şi aici, în Deltă.

Peştele de la Giurgeni începe

Abia acum, după 20 de ani, am înţeles ce înseamnă Delta. Când toată lumea zice că „nu mai e Delta ce a fost“ şi că totul se cam duce de râpă. „Natura se regenerează“ pare la fel de greu de înghiţit la faţa locului, precum i-ar fi cormoranului să mănânce un şalău sau una dintre sticlele goale de bere, aruncate de turişti în apă. Totuşi, minuni se mai întâmplă, măcar în lumea peştilor şi a păsărilor, iar pentru asta merită să faci o excursie în Deltă. Sursa: EVZ

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